Yes, We Have No Bananas

Kayaking Day 7, November 4, 2018

We went to bed early, so I was up before sunrise this morning and able to catch a glimpse of the moon before the sky brightened and overpowered it.

Today we had an intermission planned at the village of San Evaristo, 7 miles to the south, to resupply. It was nice to have had a lay-day.

Once the sun rose high enough to take away our shade at Nopoló, we cast off, paddling parallel with a vertical rock wall, complete with arches and submerged boulders.

This entire stretch of coastline is part of the land owned by the nature conservancy, Sociedad de Historia Natural Niparajá, that I mentioned previously. It’s pretty, but rugged, country.

Everyone was refreshed and smiling. It was good to be back in the kayaks.

We had a relaxing paddle, all the way to Punta Evaristo – views from my boat, fore and aft:

Punta Evaristo is an odd agglomeration of eroding, metamorphic rock.

We are now approaching civilization, of sorts. The village of San Evaristo, home to about 75 people, is accessible by graded road, so most residents here have cars. It is the largest settlement between Loreto and La Paz with about 40 buildings, including a shop that usually stocks food and other supplies for sale.

After beaching our kayaks at the north end of the bay, Mario set off for the village in hopes of purchasing fresh produce. He soon returned with a dejected look. There was nothing to be had. In my head I could hear the response he must have received: “Yes, we have no bananas.” The sea would have to be our larder now.

No reason to linger here. We climbed back into the kayaks and continued south another 3 miles (making 10 for the day) to a beautiful beach on the south side of Punta Arena to swim, bathe and camp for the night.

The southern part of the Sea of Cortez only ranges about 3 feet between low and high tide and the wind and seas were so calm that Lino decided not to put out bow and stern anchors, opting, instead, to let the panga sit beached at the shoreline. The stillness of the air necessitated setting up the latrine at a distance.

We had this long, lonely stretch of coast all to ourselves. Although it was only 5:00 p.m. when Lino started cooking dinner, the sun had dropped below the butte to our west, sheltering us comfortably in shade.

We were far enough ahead of schedule that Mario and Lino promised us another lay-day, so we went to bed early in order to be rested for a full day of exploring in the panga.

2 thoughts on “Yes, We Have No Bananas

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