Here’s a map of our travels around Tierra del Fuego with the rental car: And here’s another map of our flights and bus rides (which added more mileage that didn’t compute on my mapping program); Miami is off the map. We went 20,000 miles! P.S. We’re in Buenos Aires overnight, flying out tomorrow to Miami. … Continue reading
Category Archives: Chile
Tierra del Fuego
The better part of Saturday was spent in the Mount Pleasant airport, 35 miles from Stanley, waiting for our flight back to Punta Arenas, Chile. The plane was full of returning journalists, Russian fishermen and scientists from the Antarctic Survey teams. The flight was uneventful and we got to our hotel around 7:00, took a … Continue reading
Don’t Fly to Me Argentina
We spent the last two days getting from Torres del Paine, Chile, to the Falkland Islands, but we’ve arrived and are now checked in to our accommodations, the Malvinas House Hotel, overlooking Stanley harbor. Yesterday, Friday, we took the 5-hour shuttle ride to Punta Arenas, Chile, from Torres del Paine. The day turned cloudy, windy … Continue reading
A Big Paine
Our third day in Torres del Paine (pronounced “Pah-ay-nay”) was spent doing a 12-hour tour called the “Full Paine.” For us, this excursion was the biggest challenge of all because it was so difficult to be inside a bus or ferry boat instead of being outdoors in this beautiful part of the world. But the … Continue reading
Enchanted Valley
For our fourth and final day at Hotel Las Torres Patagonia, we opted for the all-day horseback ride through the Enchanted Valley to Campamento Serón, a distance of 12 km each way for a total of a little more than 15 miles roundtrip. Once again, we were lucky to find ourselves as the only adventurers … Continue reading
A Different Kind of Island
After earning our keep shoeing horses, Paola walked us to the estancia’s organic garden. Along the way, we passed the original, stone manor house, built sometime in the 1920s, which is not visible from the modern hotel buildings. In the early 1990s, the manor house was converted from a residence to a dining room to … Continue reading
If The Shoe Fits
Because the horse trails are so rocky here, it’s important to make sure that the horses’ hooves are well protected; so the next part of our day as cowboys was to learn how to shoe a horse (the one on the left is for the front; the one on the right is for the rear). … Continue reading
G’Day, Mate
After rounding up the horses, we went inside the pesebrera where the saddles and bridles are stored, which is also where the baqueanos start their day with the sharing of “mate” (pronounced “mah-tay”) and a fried bread called “sopaipillas.” Mate (or, more accurately, “yerba mate”) is a type of tea favored by Chileans and Argentinians. … Continue reading
Cowboy for a Day
Our second full day at Hotel Las Torres Patagonia was spent as “Baqueanos Por Un Día,” that is, as “Cowboys for a Day.” I had previously said that the cowboys in Patagonia are called “Gauchos,” but that is not completely accurate; the term “Baqueanos” is preferred in Chilean Patagonia. Our morning began with a greeting … Continue reading
Scrambled Legs
Unlike the hikes elsewhere on our trip where the trails have been well-defined, the ascent to the summit of Cerro Paine was an unmarked scramble over rocks and gravel for the entire 1.5 mile, 1,600 ft. ascent. Our legs felt it immediately; each step up requiring concentration. So, even though our climb to Laguna de … Continue reading
Horsing Around
It’s been difficult for us to decide whether the sunsets or the sunrises are prettier here in Patagonia. After checking into the hotel Sunday night (and being decadent and having a massage – those tired legs), we had dinner and went to bed early, leaving the drapes open. This morning, we watched the sunrise through … Continue reading
Bus, Bus, the Magic Bus
We spent this past weekend Getting from El Chaltén, Argentina, to Parque Nacional Torres del Paine in Chile, a distance of only 110 miles, point to point, but a bus ride of 350 miles taking, about nine hours, due to geography and the crossing of national borders. We left El Chaltén Saturday in the early … Continue reading