According to my GPS, as we were leaving Abisko for Kiruna, we apparently passed through the Twilight Zone; or, maybe the ground was subsiding: We spent a little time in Kiruna after we landed at the airport there a few days ago before visiting the Sámi Camp to see the reindeer and then continuing on … Continue reading
Kungsleden
We timed our travels in Northern Scandinavia well with hikes on cool, dry days and driving on rainy days. As you saw, the best weather of all was when we most wanted it: for the vistas from the summit of Mt. Njullá. The weather held for the rest of the day as we hiked south … Continue reading
Njullá
Rested and ready after our driving day, we woke early intending to hike as much of Abisko nationalpark as we could in one day. The highest point in the park is the summit of Mt. Njullá at 1,164m (3,820 ft.). In the winter, Njullá is a ski mountain and there’s a single chairlift at 400m … Continue reading
The Norwegian Campaign
When we woke up the morning after our Stone Valley hike, the sky looked ominous. At the lodge, they make a point of telling you that Abisko is in the rain shadow of the mountains of Norway and they get very little rain as a result. Could be, but that wasn’t our experience. Sensing that … Continue reading
Can you say “Gearggevággi?”
Can you say “Gearggevággi?” No? How about “Kärkvagge?” Me, neither. Both of those are Sámi for “Stone Valley;” the first is the older way, following by the modern spelling. I think, but don’t know for sure, that they are both pronounced the same. Anyway, I’m going with “Stone Valley,” for reasons you’ll soon understand. Stone … Continue reading
Midnight Sun
There’s an annual astronomical event called the summer solstice. I know what it is, and you probably do too, but try as I might, I can’t describe it. I’m a visual thinker and this is one picture that I can’t put into words. It has to do with the axial tilt of the earth and … Continue reading
Looks Like Rain, Dear
Yesterday, we flew from Stockholm to Kiruna in northern Sweden. We arrived in 40° F, rainy weather, picked up our rental car, and, after a quick lunch, drove out to the Sámi Camp to see the reindeer. The Sámi are the indigenous people of the Nordic countries, today numbering about 60,000, one-third of whom live … Continue reading
Ingvar Kamprad Elmtaryd Agunnaryd
Ingvar Kamprad grew up on a farm called Elmtaryd in the parish of Agunnaryd, Småland, in the south of Sweden, where, in 1943 at the age of 17, he opened a mail order business selling pencils, postcards and other small merchandise that he named IKEA, an acronym using the first letters of his name and … Continue reading
Sandhamn
When we lived in Miami, Florida, we sailed or motored a few times to Sands Key, an uninhabited island in Biscayne Bay at the far north end of the Florida Keys. A couple days ago, we took the ferry to the Swedish equivalent, Sandön (“Sand Island”), which lies 30 miles east of Stockholm on the … Continue reading
Djurgården
Toward the end of this trip we will be biking for 12 days through the Baltic countries of Estonia, Latvia and Lithuania, averaging about 25 miles per day. So earlier this week we decided to take a practice run. We rented bikes in Östermalm, the eastern side of town, intending to ride the perimeter of … Continue reading
Hangin’ Out
Wonder how I found the time to research and write about so much of Sweden’s history recently? Answer: Laundry Day. The forecast was cold and drizzly and we had been here for 10 days, so we decided to stay in for the day to take care of domestic chores. You might think that doing laundry … Continue reading
Stormaktstiden
On occassion, I will upload a post before I have thoroughly proof-read it. Unfortunately, as soon as a post is uploaded, WordPress immediately converts and sends it to subscribers to my blog as an email, locked in time as originally written. I can still edit my posts after-the-fact, but most subscribers never see the revised … Continue reading
Stockholm Pass
It’s not uncommon for us to spend the first week or so on a home exchange playing tourist, that is, visiting all the things tourists visit and riding the public transit to get the lay of the land (Dale says I “imprint” the local map in my subconscious). So, here in Stockholm we purchased a … Continue reading
Vasa Matta You?
We visited Stockholm briefly 12 years ago with Dale’s mother and one of the highlights of that trip for me was a stop at the Vasa Museum. The Vasa was a Swedish warship built between 1626-1628 during Sweden’s imperial phase. It was one of the largest and most heavily armed warships of the age, but … Continue reading
Nobelesse Oblige
Following our visit to the Royal Palace – and taking advantage of the fact that most of the crowds were on the other side of the building, awaiting the arrival of the King – we took another look around Gamla stan, the Old City. The streets were much less crowded this time, as you can … Continue reading
Takin’ Care of Business
Yesterday, June 6, was National Day here in the Kingdom of Sweden (really, that’s the official name), which mainly seems to be a day of show and display for the Royal Family and, since 2005, an excuse to take a day off from work. I don’t really get this whole royalty business. It’s probably because … Continue reading
Off Road
We decided to put off a tour of the Parliament Building until next weekend, but stuck with our plan to avoid the downtown streets and buses, assuming the marathon would be causing gridlock throughout the city. Consequently, we spent the day off the streets by going first underground and then on the water. Stockholm’s metro … Continue reading
Trash Talking
Tomorrow is the annual Stockholm Marathon. Nearly 16,700 runners have signed up. We are not among them. Without knowing it, however, we completed 1/3 of the course today, hiking from our apartment in the Vasastan district down to Gamla stan, literally, the Old City, and back. Yesterday, after morning coffee, we found the grocery store … Continue reading
Karlbergsvägen
We landed safe and sound in Stockholm after a 10.5 hour great-circle route flight over Canada, Greenland, Iceland and Norway spanning 1/5 of the globe’s circumferance. The plane was new and comfortable, but we never seem to sleep when we fly. It was a 30-minute taxi ride from the airport to our home for the … Continue reading
One Step Forward, Two Steps Back
We’re about to begin our Scandanavian/Baltic adventure. As I write this, we are sitting in the airport in Las Vegas, having left our home in Bellingham, Washington, 7 1/2 hours ago, yet being no closer to Stockholm, Sweden, than when we left this morning. Why, you might ask, have we traveled so long to merely … Continue reading
Fantasyland
For our last full day in Germany before returning to the USA, we decided to go on an excursion to see Schloss Neuschwanstein (translated literally: “Castle New Swan Stone”), the fairy tale castle of “Mad King Ludwig” (King Ludwig II) of Bavaria. To get to Neuschwanstein we used the last of our 10-day Eurail Pass, … Continue reading
River Surfing
The sun came out in force on Friday, so we made our way to the English Garden (Englischer Garten) on the banks of the Isar River. As we have been wandering around town, we've occasionally seen surfers on bikes riding down the street: I had heard about river surfing in Munich, so we followed one … Continue reading
Reich Tour
Before this trip, when someone mentioned Munich, I thought of Oktoberfest, Biergärten and Lederhosen. But I suppose that Americans and Europeans of my parents’ (and their parents’) generation associate the city with something much more sinister than Lager and pretzels: Munich is the birthplace of the Nazi Party and the political career of Adolph Hitler. … Continue reading
Dachau
The weather has continued to be cool and overcast since our arrival in Munich, not really good for spending time outdoors at the Englischer Garten or a Biergarten, which is what we had hoped to do. But the gloomy and foreboding feel of the day matched the mood and experience of our excursion to nearby … Continue reading
Rathaus
When we arrived in Munich (München) on Sunday afternoon it was in the mid-80s. But, a front moved through southern Germany on Monday and today it was in the 50s. It was odd to be looking for a fan in the apartment one day, then trying to figure out the heating system the next. At … Continue reading