Holy Mölle

We left the island of Møl after breakfast and drove north to Copenhagen, planning to cross over to Malmö, Sweden, before noon. Unfortunately, there was an horrific backup on the expressway and we ended up sitting in traffic for 2.5 hours – probably the longest I’ve ever been stuck in traffic anywhere. At long last, … Continue reading

Norwegian Wood

Leaving the Kon-Tiki Museum, we caught the public bus to the Norsk Folkemuseum, the open-air Norwegian Folk Museum, where several farmsteads have been carefully reassembled in geographical and chronological arrangement. Unlike the rest of Europe, Norway never adopted feudalism; thus, farmers have always held absolute ownership of their lands, unlike countries such as England where, … Continue reading


Saturday morning found us in the oldest city in Denmark, the medieval town of Ribe. Supposedly, the cobblestone streets we walked along date from 869 A.D. I felt guilty driving and parking on such ancient artifacts. We started by walking through the Torvet, the market square, down the pedestrian shopping street, stopping for coffee, then … Continue reading

En Plein Air

In the 1870s, several Scandinavian artists “discovered” Skagen and drawn by the soft light of the north, moved there to paint, especially the so-called “Blue Hour” near twilight when the sky melts into the sea. Their subjects were the local fisherman, fishing in skiffs from the beach, the seaside scenery and themselves. These northern painters … Continue reading